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"Jig Fishing 101"
by Randy Bitner
WARNING: Steelheading is NOT a hobby!
It’s an
addiction or an illness. Why else would grown men and women do the dance
of joy when the first rains fall in September and October? Every rain or
snow melt through April usually draws the same response. It’s because
Steelheaders are addicts craving their next fix. For some, it’s the
unmistakable headshake or watching your float get buried by a hungry
steelhead. For others, it’s just being out there soaking up the
surroundings and clearing your head from the everyday chaos. And for
an elite, and I use that term VERY loosely, group of guys that I’ve met
over the last twenty-five years, it’s about helping a “newbie” get their
first steelhead and the sharing of a wealth of knowledge that books
couldn't possibly describe adequately.
Many
times people have asked me, ”What’s the easiest way to catch a
steelhead?” My response has remained consistent for nearly twenty-five
years…..jig & maggot. I've also been asked, “How much does it cost to get
into fishing for steelhead?” The answer is quite simply as little or as
much as you want to spend. The focus of this article is going to be an
approach toward the beginner or budget minded angler. First we’ll look at
why my answer is jig & maggot, followed by a brief breakdown of the sizes
I prefer,
types and styles of jigs that are available and some of the other terminal
tackle and equipment that you’ll need to be successful in your quest for
steel.
The
primary reason for my response " jig & maggot" is because the
combination works! I believe that it is the most effective and productive method
across 90% of the condition encountered within Steelhead Alley rivers.
It allows you to cover a great deal of water at various depths with minor
adjustments and minimal fuss.
The
most effective sizes of jigs that I have used range from 1/32 oz. down to
1/100 oz with the 1/64oz being my personal preference for most conditions.
As the rivers clear and the fish become easily spooked, I’ll drop
to 1/80 oz or 1/100oz. The most common materials that you’ll find
and use for tying are
feathers, marabou and soft plastics. I’ve fished the full spectrum
of variations and have been
successful, but because of the “breathing” action of marabou,
it’s my material of choice. All of these materials are available in a
wide range of colors with black, white, pink, chartreuse, olive, blue,
red, purple and a chrome or silver being the primary solid colors you’ll
want to consider. Jigs are available in combinations of the above at
most local shops. You’ll develop a color and pattern preference as you
progress. Some of my personal favorites are a black/chartreuse/red with
flash that I call “The Widowmaker” and “Big & Ugly” which is a combination
of black/blue and flash.
Don’t be afraid to trust your gut on choosing patterns. If it looks
like something that will catch fish, it probably will. Cost of store
bought jigs normally range from $1.25 - $2.00. Erie Outfitters seems to have the best selection on the
West Side of Cleveland and Grand River Tackle on the East Side. Most of
these shops will offer loose jigs that are either hand tied on site or
purchased from a local vendor. You’ll want to carry at least 3 or more of
the patterns you choose because YOU WILL LOSE THEM either to fish or
snags. The worst thing that WILL happen is that you find a hot pattern
that the fish are hammering and you lose your last one when the fishing is
at its best.
As far as a rod and reel
are concerned, we'll assume you already own them. I’d imagine
that what you have will work just fine. An important consideration is
a properly set drag as a hot
steelhead can make a 20-30ft run in the blink of an eye and the worst
sound that many of us has heard is the shotgun snap of line giving way. I
started out using a 6’6” ML spinning rod with 6lb test. I would recommend
not going lighter than 6lb test on line or lighter on the rod action than
ML, UL for the longer (10’6” and larger) rods that are available – but
that’s another article. A peg bobber is the most common and readily
available float, as well as the easiest to adjust. They work wonderfully
in this application. For the
beginning steelheader, please DO NOT use the big red/white bobbers that
we used as kids. They don’t give as true of a reading of a light
bite and they tend to drift
faster than normal due to their shape and size. Setting jig to depth is dictated by the type
of water that you’re fishing. In most cases, I’d use my hat as a guide
and work from there.
I’d set my jig in the rod hook keeper or in the top ring of cork and place
the float at the brim of my hat. I’d put a split shot on at the
first eye on the rod (usually 12-18 inches from the jig). You’ll
want to watch your first couple drifts carefully to see if you are
catching bottom. I like my presentations to suspend just above bottom without resistance. You can slide your float up or down and add or remove shot
accordingly. Split shot are an important aspect of the rig because it
allows the jig to remain in the strike zone longer, it gets the offering
down to depth more efficiently, and it balances the float to neutral for
quick dunks and light-bite detection. I use the BB sized shot with usually a single shot where I
indicated earlier. A bag of 100 should last a full season.
Rod &
Reel = Already have
6-10 lb Line = Already on the reel
3 Peg Bobbers = $4.00
Split shot = $1.00
Jigs (Nice assortment) = $15
Maggots = $1.75
Catching 1st Steelhead = PRICELESS
Passing it on = Better than catching one yourself
We’ve talked about what you’ll need to get started and how
much it will cost you to get started. You have your rod and reel, line,
floats, jigs, split shot and maggots, probably all for an initial cost of
near $20. A minimal investment considering the returns inherent in
steelhead fishing. I’ll leave you with two of the most important words you’ll ever
say or hear on the water, “FISH ON!”
-Randy Bitner,
Jester
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